Discussion - Member to Member Sales - Research Center
Discussion - Member to Member Sales - Research Center
08:18:38am
First, I'm extremely sensitive to mold. I'm basically the canary in the coal mine when it comes to this stuff. I have 6-8 Scott and Scott Junior albums that I won in auctions that all stink of mold. They are all 80-90% full, so we're talking thousands of stamps. When I received them, I did what is generally done with moldy books - put them in a box with dryer sheets and baking soda and sealed them up.
I had health trouble this year so they've been in said box for about 8 months now and I'm scared to even open it. Bobby does live just two hours away so we could all convince him to drive down here and do the honors!
I realize that the stamps must be soaked off the pages and the albums thrown away, but is there a way to ensure the stamps aren't still carrying mold spores? Can bleach be added to the water without ruining the stamps? I've thought that I should just trash the whole box but I shudder to think of throwing away that many stamps. I also don't want to soak the stamps off of these albums, add them to my albums and cause mold to affect my other stamps.
Any advice welcome!
Login to Like
this post
Bummer Lisa!!
I had a small batch come in one time with mold/mildew. I soaked them free from the pages, allowed them to dry thoroughly and threw small batches in the microwave for 10-15 seconds at a time. If the batches were a bit larger, I fluffed them after the first round then ran them for another 10-15 seconds. I've never had an issue with them since. I wouldn't nuke any that were still damp or had gum, however.
You might try a small batch of low values and see if it works for you.
Be sure to wear a surgical mask while doing the preliminary work with the stamps.
WB
1 Member
likes this post.
Login to Like.
09:29:48am
Excellent idea! The microwave does sound better than bleach. I assume you soaked and thoroughly dried. Did you flatten them before or after microwaving? I use plastic sheets and heavy books to flatten.
Login to Like
this post
Lisa, I've found several sources that claim the UV rays from the sun kill mold. Like you, I have several albums that need some kind of treatment to save the stamps. My plan was to lay the stamps out on trays in the sun for a few minutes. The problem I have is that I work days, and weekend days here in Nebraska that are free of wind are scarce! If I get the chance to try it, I'll post the results here.
-Steve
Login to Like
this post
Good morning,
Yes, soak and dry thoroughly, nuke, then flatten is how I did it. You could experiment with flattening before nuking, I'm not sure if it would make any difference either way. Trick is, you're not using heat to kill the mold/mildew, but rather the microwave frequency itself.
Best wishes for you on these,
WB
Login to Like
this post
09:52:11am
Wow - one of the rare days I'm awake in the morning (not by choice) - I learn something new - nuking stamps has never once crossed my mind.
Considering my notoriety of blowing things up, I think I ought not to attempt this, however, for people who are not prone to blowing things up, sounds like a good thing to try. Let me know the results!
Login to Like
this post
"Be sure to wear a surgical mask while doing the preliminary work with the stamps."
Great idea, but if your allergies are that bad, you might consider surgical gloves as well.
2 Members
like this post.
Login to Like.
10:18:39am
I will let everyone know the results, however it is not something I'll be doing today. Maybe after Christmas!
I'm actually so horribly allergic to mold, I'm trying to figure out if there's a place I can buy an "astronaut suit." I really don't want to be exposed at all.
Bobby - the offer for you to help still stands! 
Login to Like
this post
Well, it appears that Bobby is not going to take you up on your offer, Lisa, so just send me a first class airline ticket and I will "sacrifice" my precious free time to assist you with your moldy problem. Of course, there are restrictions to the offer being, no freezing temperatures and no SNOW! After living in Florida this long and only seeing snow when we lived up in Tampa back in 1977 or '78 I don't think I could handle much of that anymore.
Mike
Login to Like
this post
Microwaves are absorbed by, and heat, water molecules.
I would nuke first, then soak ... that would avoid heating the residual moisture (down in the paper) in recently-soaked stamps, and would also carry away the debris from any busted mold spores.
Ah, spores.
The problem with mold is not washing away what you can, but living with what you can't (wash away).
There will (pretty much) always be residual spores down in the paper, and they will always be waiting for moisture & warmth.
Enough UV to kill those spores ought to be enough UV to damage ink molecules, etc.
I'd avoid direct sunlight.
Of course, with your hobby, you probably don't get enough sunlight, BTAT (But That's Another Thread).
Cheers,
/s/ ikeyPikey
Login to Like
this post
If there's gum present, I'm not sure I'd nuke first. If soaked and dried "thoroughly", there shouldn't be any more moisture present then with stamps that haven't been soaked. Remember, heat isn't the objective. Short rounds of microwave energy is all you're after.
This is just my opinion of the method, it's the one I used and got what I felt were good results. Experimenting with different methods on low value stamps could possibly improve on those results.
WB
Login to Like
this post
11:07:24am
I fully intend to take you up on your offer for a home cooked Italian meal (thought I'd forgot, didn't you), but I am afraid the season of "Bobby stays off highways" has arrived and is not due to end until all semblance of ice, snow, sleet, etc. has departed. Although I have never tried it, I like the microwave idea. I would take ikeyPikey's advice, however, and nuke first and soak afterward - his rationale is in line with the technology.
My sister was as sensitive to mold as you appear to be, and I hate to tell you how much she and her husband spent to make their house "mold free." Hopefully your mold problem is confined to the one box of stamps. I received an album similar to the ones you described about a year ago, and I believe it is still rotting away in my basement and will be landfill bound when I get around to cleaning down there.
Bobby
Login to Like
this post
Bobby, you can send those stamps to me, it'd give me something to try the "nuke before soaking" method on.
I have absolutely no allergic reaction to mold/mildew, just hate the smell!
WB
Login to Like
this post
11:31:24am
Given that they've been in a box for eight months already, who knows when I'll get to them.
Mike - we don't have snow yet, so if I had the money, you'd be on the next flight!
WB - you're a very lucky man. I don't know a world without reacting to mold. 
Bobby - I will absolutely cook you that Italian meal, so maybe these stamps will just stay in their box until spring. Aside from the mold, there is a lot of work to be done to get all of those stamps out of the albums! 
Login to Like
this post
Thanks Lisa, but for what I lack in a reaction to mold, I more then make up for with pollen related allergies!
UGH, Ragweed!!!!
WB
Login to Like
this post
"Short rounds of microwave energy is all you're after."
The susceptibility of mold spores to microwave energy will - unless there is some uniquely vulnerable molecule known to inhabit largely-invulnerable-to-anything mold spores - be dependent on heating the water in the spores.
I am not sure why mold spores would have a lot of water molecules in them, as they evolved specifically to survive without, you know, water.
In any event, if you don't heat those water molecules in those spores, the microwaves might be about as deadly as a too-loud rendition of in a gadda da vita.
Remember that microwave best practices require you to have an open container of water inside the microwave oven to absorb the microwave energy that would otherwise bounce around until it hit & damaged your microwave oven. (Hint: the antenna works both ways.)
That open container of water will, of course, provide airborne water molecules that will land on your stamps and awaken your now-dormant mold spores. Is this what you want?
Nuke, shmook.
After you've scraped-off & washed-off the worst of the mold, the only 'treatment' is to deny them the warmth & moisture (including both humidity & condensation) that would set them a-blooming.
Which is what you do for all your stamps, right?
Cheers,
/s/ ikeyPikey
Login to Like
this post
06:27:33pm
I don't know how microwaves work. I do know that vinegar or bleach will kill mold on dry wall and wood. Therefore, would a soak in vinegar or bleach ruin the stamps?
Login to Like
this post
Nuke, shmook! Really?! Is it me or was I just insulted?
I'll have to look up the word shmook and see.
Anyway, nuke and soak, soak and nuke, don't nuke at all...I was just trying to offer a helpful suggestion that I felt worked for me. Whatever route you go Lisa, I hope you're able to save the stamps.
WB
P.S. You might try putting your stamps in front of the stereo, putting on that Iron Butterfly album and head for 10. It could work!!
Login to Like
this post
07:59:59pm
I'd avoid the bleach - definitely. That is, unless you are creating a new colour variety of a stamp that could then be listed by Scott to be worth thousands of dollars, then by all means - bleach your mold away 
Login to Like
this post
Rubbing Alcohol will kill the mold and as I understand it is not damaging to the stamps...
Login to Like
this post
Bleach is an acid.
We go to great lengths to avoid album pages with paper that is, or can become, acidic.
In fact, you can buy pH pens for testing your album pages to insure that they are not, today, acidic.
You can learn more than you ever wanted to know by searching "acid-free".
Of course, even the acid-free paper thing needs to be kept in perspective: I would never take a pH pen to my stamp-bearing covers or cards because I need my sleep.
I would not expect any chemical - acid or base (ammonia) - to be harmful to mold spores and harmless to paper.
Cheers,
/s/ ikeyPikey
Login to Like
this post
Hi Everyone;
I don't know if anything will permanently kill mold spores, but maybe someone with a background
in microbiology can weigh in. Maybe google some phrases to see what pops up?
@ Lisa;
For your own health, if you don't already own one, you should buy a Wilson mask. It is a black rub-
ber thingy that goes over your nose and mouth, and looks a little like a gas mask, except they do
not cover the eyes. They have them with one or two canisters that hold various types of filters that
protect you from various respiratory hazards. Some occupations require their use because they are
super effective.
They are called Wilson masks because they are a brand name for a whole line of personal protec-
tion safety gear. They are available with dust filters, activated charcoal filters (for volatile organic
solvents), and many other types of hazard filter things.
I would recommend the two canister model, as that will make breathing much easier for long periods
without experiencing shortness of breath. I have used them and they work really well. They are not
cheap, usually $40 or so, but worth every penny. Even members on here with pollen allergies or
other respiratory issues could benefit from owning one of them.
I think they would be helpful for various watermark fluids that require ventilation, as an extra meas-
ure of safety. Health is too precious to risk, and some types of damage is not obvious until it is irre-
versible.
Here is a place to look at what they are and their costs. This site has one on sale from $39.99 priced
at $24.99. Click Here to See One.
Just Chillin'....
TuskenRaider
Login to Like
this post
"Rubbing Alcohol will kill the mold and as I understand it is not damaging to the stamps..."
How about a soak in Ronson's Lighter Fluid? I believe the hobby agrees it doesn't damage stamps since that's the 'go to' chemical for watermark detection?? It should kill mold spores.
Login to Like
this post
"... the hobby agrees it doesn't damage stamps since that's the 'go to' chemical for watermark detection ..."
One can only hope that the people who are remounting thousands & thousands of stamps onto acid-free archival-grade paper are not the same people dousing their little treasures in volatile organic fluids which, necessarily, contain a variety of compounds, not all of them volatile.
But, then, why not?
/s/ ikeyPikey
Login to Like
this post
09:34:05am
This has sparked an interesting conversation. I worked for almost a decade with water systems, remediating fungi and bacteria. We left the mold issues to the professionals. I don’t have any idea how to remove mold from stamps, hence this thread.
Bleach is actually caustic, not acidic. For those who aren’t familiar with it, the pH scale goes from just above zero to 14. A pH of 7.0 is neutral. Anything above that is caustic, anything below is acidic. The pH scale is logarithmic, so every one-unit change in pH actually represents a ten-fold change in acidity. In other words, pH 6.0 is ten times more acidic than pH 7.0; pH 5 is one hundred times mores acidic than pH 7.0.
It appears that lighter fluid has a pH of around 5. However, the misconception that our water is pH neutral (7.0) is common. The amount of various chemicals, toxins and carcinogens allowed in treated drinking water is incredible. See the EPA drinking water guidelines. This also states that drinking water can have a pH of between 5-9.
My home has well water which is specific to my location. However, my water is about a pH of 6. Deionized water is about 6 and RO (Reverse Osmosis) water is lower (more acidic). Therefore, anyone who soaks stamps is introducing some sort of acid from their water or chlorine from water treatment systems.
The question then becomes (for me) how acidic or caustic is too acidic or caustic for stamps? Since I have well water, is adding something to the soaking water so bad since treated water has so many additives? Has anyone ever soaked stamps with some sort of soap? It would have to be rinsed after, but it is another thought I’ve had.
I’m very curious to see what everyone thinks about this.
Login to Like
this post
In response to Ikey-pikey's remark about "in a gadda da vida", I'm sure we have some members that have never had the joy of listening to that wonderful music and then some that have been missing it for years, so just follow this link and enjoy all 17 minutes of it I am enjoying it now.
Mike
(Modified by Moderator on 2015-12-24 11:09:37)
2 Members
like this post.
Login to Like.
A few collectors with vids on youtube recommend putting a few drops of liquid soap in the water. They claim that it helps in washing away residual gum. If it were anti-fungal it might help with the mold, too.
But, there may be a lesson coming from someone on the differences between fungi and mold and why anti-fungal soap wouldn't work on mold.
I know! Lysol spray, it kills mold and mildew on contact, the commercial says so!
Merry Christmas, everyone!!
WB
Login to Like
this post
11:19:35am
Alright, let's get this back on topic!
Anyone who believes In a Gadda da Vida is a moldy oldie, knows nothing about metal rock and the definition of mold. It is as great today as it was back when we would lie around (me usually drunk, my buddies usually stoned) blissfully tripping on 17 minutes of Iron Butterfly's ground breaking classic. Loosely translated, the title means "in the garden of life (or Eden)."
1 Member
likes this post.
Login to Like.
12:00:38pm
Bobby - what a fantastic role for future lawyers you were back then! LOL
Login to Like
this post
"... Bleach is actually caustic, not acidic ..."
Yowza! I stand corrected. The chlorine always brings to mind hydrochloric acid and, even though I knew that bleach was made from some other chlorine compound, I never thought for a moment that bleach was not acidic. Well-spotted!
Login to Like
this post
11:00:00am
ikeyPikey - no worries! I had to look it up to make sure my memory served me correctly. Regardless, caustic or acidic substances are probably not good for stamps.
WB - Ahhh, the differences between fungus and mold, eh? Mold is a type of fungus and grows by creating multicellular filaments (hyphae). Fungus can be anything from a growth of green stuff on organic matter (plants and animals) to those lovely things we eat called mushrooms. Mold is famous because penicillin is derived from a certain type. A big difference between the two is that mold causes the degradation of organic substances and fungus usually does not.
Therefore, technically, I would assume that anti-fungal soap would also work on mold since they are in the same family. In industrial use, bleach is most commonly used (in my experience) to annihilate fungus, mold, and bacteria. It’s the “kill everything in one shot†go to cleaner.
I suppose I will try a couple drops of liquid soap in my soaking water for these stamps, then a rinse in plain water. I may rethink this for higher valued stamps.
I thought I heard that Bobby offered to take all of the albums, soak all of the stamps and return them to me clean and ready to go in albums! Ssssshhhhh! Don't tell Bobby! 
Login to Like
this post
Hi Lisa,
I have used hot water and a few drops of dish washing detergent for my stamp soaking for a lot of years..
A few things to remember though :: Test on a few low value stamps from the same Country and date; remember that not all detergents are created equal (some are acid and some are alkaline) Use one that is as close to neutral as possible (don't know how you will test that unless you have litmus paper).
The detergent is basically used as a wetting agent and some (soil) wetting agents used in the gardening world may be better - remember that LESS is Best and start with only a very small drop or two.
Cheers
Steve.
Login to Like
this post
11:29:44pm
Thank you, Steve. I have two aquariums so I do have pH testing strips. When I'm ready to tackle the giant, moldy ness, I'll let you all know the results.
Login to Like
this post
For some years now I have been using Chloromine-T. There is a lot of information on the internet about it's use. Here is an extract:
"Chloramine-T is available in tablet or powder form and has to be dissolved before use. It is sprayed on a surface and allowed to stand for at least 15 minutes before being wiped off or allowed to dry. It used in areas such as hospitals, laboratories, nursing homes, funeral homes, medical, dental and veterinary facilities, where control of pathogens is required, for disinfecting surfaces and soaking medical and dental equipment. The substance is also used for parasite control and for drinking water disinfection.
Chloramine-T is as an algicide, bactericide, virucide, fungicide (including spores), germicide. It is also effective against mycobacteria such as tuberculosis, foot-and-mouth disease and avian influenza."
Popular with those who have ponds or tropical fish tanks, Kusuri is one brand of this chemical:
"Kusuri Chloramine T is a very popular and effective treatment to generally lower bacterial levels in the pond. Kusuri Chloramine T can be effective on white spot, skin flukes and some bacterial gill diseases. Kusuri Chloramine T can be used in the entire pond or as a dip or bath treatment. Use above 55 degrees Fahrenheit.
Kusuri Chloramine T is a powdered product an effective broad spectrum chemical for lowering bacteria in ponds.
At higher dose rates Kusuri Chloramine T can be used for skin / gill flukes, white spot, costia etc."
The use of Chloromine-T is not new to philately and collectors of documents. It was marketed
as Ducal's Fox It. Originally retailed by philatelic suppliers Vera Trinder in London (now moved), it is no longer made unfortunately. However, Chloromine-T is readily available online and is more cost effective than when Fox It was available.
I have had considerable success using this on documents and stamps. Aside from it's ability to remove foxing and toning, it has removed staining from pictures kept near open fires and tobacco smoke.
Just don't mention this, or bleach, or ammonia to any document preservation specialist; they'll set the hound of Hades upon you.
Login to Like
this post
"... exposure to dry heat of 150 degrees F for just 30 minutes ..."
I would caution that any heat will, first & foremost, bring out any residual moisture in the paper, and that enough out-gassed water vapor will activate WAG (Water Activated Gum) to ill effect.
There will be much less risk of this if you are baking single sheets, and much more risk if you are backing whole albums.
And ...
When evaluating amateur science reports ("Brief online research suggests ..."), critical thinking becomes, well, critical.
Example: someone does something to a paper something bearing some kind of mold. Smell goes away. Without analytic tools that The Average Joe is unlikely to possess, it will not be immediately obvious if the mold is 'dead' or 'dormant' (returned to spores).
From a smell point of view, these can be pretty much the same. But if the afore-mentioned paper something is exposed again to warmth & humidity, the spores will thrive.
Put another way, the only reliable DIY test of dead-vs-dormant is to expose the album to warmth & humidity, a test best avoided because you might get lucky (as it were).
In conclusion: when baking paper to kill mold, be aware that you may not be achieving what you think you are achieving, but that it may not make a difference if you do what should have been done all along.
Cheers,
/s/ ikeyPikey
Login to Like
this post
It is during our darkest moments that we must focus to see the light. - Aristotle Onassis
23 Dec 2015
08:18:38am
I know we've discussed moldy albums before, and by and large, the general consensus was to throw everything out. The situation I find myself in is a bit unique, so I'm asking for advice from the experts.
First, I'm extremely sensitive to mold. I'm basically the canary in the coal mine when it comes to this stuff. I have 6-8 Scott and Scott Junior albums that I won in auctions that all stink of mold. They are all 80-90% full, so we're talking thousands of stamps. When I received them, I did what is generally done with moldy books - put them in a box with dryer sheets and baking soda and sealed them up.
I had health trouble this year so they've been in said box for about 8 months now and I'm scared to even open it. Bobby does live just two hours away so we could all convince him to drive down here and do the honors! I realize that the stamps must be soaked off the pages and the albums thrown away, but is there a way to ensure the stamps aren't still carrying mold spores? Can bleach be added to the water without ruining the stamps?
I've thought that I should just trash the whole box but I shudder to think of throwing away that many stamps. I also don't want to soak the stamps off of these albums, add them to my albums and cause mold to affect my other stamps.
Any advice welcome!
Login to Like
this post
re: Mold! and water chemistry
Bummer Lisa!!
I had a small batch come in one time with mold/mildew. I soaked them free from the pages, allowed them to dry thoroughly and threw small batches in the microwave for 10-15 seconds at a time. If the batches were a bit larger, I fluffed them after the first round then ran them for another 10-15 seconds. I've never had an issue with them since. I wouldn't nuke any that were still damp or had gum, however.
You might try a small batch of low values and see if it works for you.
Be sure to wear a surgical mask while doing the preliminary work with the stamps.
WB
1 Member
likes this post.
Login to Like.
It is during our darkest moments that we must focus to see the light. - Aristotle Onassis
23 Dec 2015
09:29:48am
re: Mold! and water chemistry
Excellent idea! The microwave does sound better than bleach. I assume you soaked and thoroughly dried. Did you flatten them before or after microwaving? I use plastic sheets and heavy books to flatten.
Login to Like
this post
re: Mold! and water chemistry
Lisa, I've found several sources that claim the UV rays from the sun kill mold. Like you, I have several albums that need some kind of treatment to save the stamps. My plan was to lay the stamps out on trays in the sun for a few minutes. The problem I have is that I work days, and weekend days here in Nebraska that are free of wind are scarce! If I get the chance to try it, I'll post the results here.
-Steve
Login to Like
this post
re: Mold! and water chemistry
Good morning,
Yes, soak and dry thoroughly, nuke, then flatten is how I did it. You could experiment with flattening before nuking, I'm not sure if it would make any difference either way. Trick is, you're not using heat to kill the mold/mildew, but rather the microwave frequency itself.
Best wishes for you on these,
WB
Login to Like
this post
A Service Dog gives a person with a disability independence. Never approach, distract or pet a working dog, especially when (s)he is in harness. Never be afraid to ask questions to the handler (parent).
23 Dec 2015
09:52:11am
re: Mold! and water chemistry
Wow - one of the rare days I'm awake in the morning (not by choice) - I learn something new - nuking stamps has never once crossed my mind.
Considering my notoriety of blowing things up, I think I ought not to attempt this, however, for people who are not prone to blowing things up, sounds like a good thing to try. Let me know the results!
Login to Like
this post
re: Mold! and water chemistry
"Be sure to wear a surgical mask while doing the preliminary work with the stamps."
Great idea, but if your allergies are that bad, you might consider surgical gloves as well.
2 Members
like this post.
Login to Like.
It is during our darkest moments that we must focus to see the light. - Aristotle Onassis
23 Dec 2015
10:18:39am
re: Mold! and water chemistry
I will let everyone know the results, however it is not something I'll be doing today. Maybe after Christmas!
I'm actually so horribly allergic to mold, I'm trying to figure out if there's a place I can buy an "astronaut suit." I really don't want to be exposed at all.
Bobby - the offer for you to help still stands!
Login to Like
this post
re: Mold! and water chemistry
Well, it appears that Bobby is not going to take you up on your offer, Lisa, so just send me a first class airline ticket and I will "sacrifice" my precious free time to assist you with your moldy problem. Of course, there are restrictions to the offer being, no freezing temperatures and no SNOW! After living in Florida this long and only seeing snow when we lived up in Tampa back in 1977 or '78 I don't think I could handle much of that anymore.
Mike
Login to Like
this post
re: Mold! and water chemistry
Microwaves are absorbed by, and heat, water molecules.
I would nuke first, then soak ... that would avoid heating the residual moisture (down in the paper) in recently-soaked stamps, and would also carry away the debris from any busted mold spores.
Ah, spores.
The problem with mold is not washing away what you can, but living with what you can't (wash away).
There will (pretty much) always be residual spores down in the paper, and they will always be waiting for moisture & warmth.
Enough UV to kill those spores ought to be enough UV to damage ink molecules, etc.
I'd avoid direct sunlight.
Of course, with your hobby, you probably don't get enough sunlight, BTAT (But That's Another Thread).
Cheers,
/s/ ikeyPikey
Login to Like
this post
re: Mold! and water chemistry
If there's gum present, I'm not sure I'd nuke first. If soaked and dried "thoroughly", there shouldn't be any more moisture present then with stamps that haven't been soaked. Remember, heat isn't the objective. Short rounds of microwave energy is all you're after.
This is just my opinion of the method, it's the one I used and got what I felt were good results. Experimenting with different methods on low value stamps could possibly improve on those results.
WB
Login to Like
this post
They who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety. -Benjamin Franklin
23 Dec 2015
11:07:24am
re: Mold! and water chemistry
I fully intend to take you up on your offer for a home cooked Italian meal (thought I'd forgot, didn't you), but I am afraid the season of "Bobby stays off highways" has arrived and is not due to end until all semblance of ice, snow, sleet, etc. has departed. Although I have never tried it, I like the microwave idea. I would take ikeyPikey's advice, however, and nuke first and soak afterward - his rationale is in line with the technology.
My sister was as sensitive to mold as you appear to be, and I hate to tell you how much she and her husband spent to make their house "mold free." Hopefully your mold problem is confined to the one box of stamps. I received an album similar to the ones you described about a year ago, and I believe it is still rotting away in my basement and will be landfill bound when I get around to cleaning down there.
Bobby
Login to Like
this post
re: Mold! and water chemistry
Bobby, you can send those stamps to me, it'd give me something to try the "nuke before soaking" method on.
I have absolutely no allergic reaction to mold/mildew, just hate the smell!
WB
Login to Like
this post
It is during our darkest moments that we must focus to see the light. - Aristotle Onassis
23 Dec 2015
11:31:24am
re: Mold! and water chemistry
Given that they've been in a box for eight months already, who knows when I'll get to them.
Mike - we don't have snow yet, so if I had the money, you'd be on the next flight!
WB - you're a very lucky man. I don't know a world without reacting to mold.
Bobby - I will absolutely cook you that Italian meal, so maybe these stamps will just stay in their box until spring. Aside from the mold, there is a lot of work to be done to get all of those stamps out of the albums!
Login to Like
this post
re: Mold! and water chemistry
Thanks Lisa, but for what I lack in a reaction to mold, I more then make up for with pollen related allergies!
UGH, Ragweed!!!!
WB
Login to Like
this post
re: Mold! and water chemistry
"Short rounds of microwave energy is all you're after."
The susceptibility of mold spores to microwave energy will - unless there is some uniquely vulnerable molecule known to inhabit largely-invulnerable-to-anything mold spores - be dependent on heating the water in the spores.
I am not sure why mold spores would have a lot of water molecules in them, as they evolved specifically to survive without, you know, water.
In any event, if you don't heat those water molecules in those spores, the microwaves might be about as deadly as a too-loud rendition of in a gadda da vita.
Remember that microwave best practices require you to have an open container of water inside the microwave oven to absorb the microwave energy that would otherwise bounce around until it hit & damaged your microwave oven. (Hint: the antenna works both ways.)
That open container of water will, of course, provide airborne water molecules that will land on your stamps and awaken your now-dormant mold spores. Is this what you want?
Nuke, shmook.
After you've scraped-off & washed-off the worst of the mold, the only 'treatment' is to deny them the warmth & moisture (including both humidity & condensation) that would set them a-blooming.
Which is what you do for all your stamps, right?
Cheers,
/s/ ikeyPikey
Login to Like
this post
It is during our darkest moments that we must focus to see the light. - Aristotle Onassis
23 Dec 2015
06:27:33pm
re: Mold! and water chemistry
I don't know how microwaves work. I do know that vinegar or bleach will kill mold on dry wall and wood. Therefore, would a soak in vinegar or bleach ruin the stamps?
Login to Like
this post
re: Mold! and water chemistry
Nuke, shmook! Really?! Is it me or was I just insulted? I'll have to look up the word shmook and see.
Anyway, nuke and soak, soak and nuke, don't nuke at all...I was just trying to offer a helpful suggestion that I felt worked for me. Whatever route you go Lisa, I hope you're able to save the stamps.
WB
P.S. You might try putting your stamps in front of the stereo, putting on that Iron Butterfly album and head for 10. It could work!!
Login to Like
this post
A Service Dog gives a person with a disability independence. Never approach, distract or pet a working dog, especially when (s)he is in harness. Never be afraid to ask questions to the handler (parent).
23 Dec 2015
07:59:59pm
re: Mold! and water chemistry
I'd avoid the bleach - definitely. That is, unless you are creating a new colour variety of a stamp that could then be listed by Scott to be worth thousands of dollars, then by all means - bleach your mold away
Login to Like
this post
re: Mold! and water chemistry
Rubbing Alcohol will kill the mold and as I understand it is not damaging to the stamps...
Login to Like
this post
re: Mold! and water chemistry
Bleach is an acid.
We go to great lengths to avoid album pages with paper that is, or can become, acidic.
In fact, you can buy pH pens for testing your album pages to insure that they are not, today, acidic.
You can learn more than you ever wanted to know by searching "acid-free".
Of course, even the acid-free paper thing needs to be kept in perspective: I would never take a pH pen to my stamp-bearing covers or cards because I need my sleep.
I would not expect any chemical - acid or base (ammonia) - to be harmful to mold spores and harmless to paper.
Cheers,
/s/ ikeyPikey
Login to Like
this post
re: Mold! and water chemistry
Hi Everyone;
I don't know if anything will permanently kill mold spores, but maybe someone with a background
in microbiology can weigh in. Maybe google some phrases to see what pops up?
@ Lisa;
For your own health, if you don't already own one, you should buy a Wilson mask. It is a black rub-
ber thingy that goes over your nose and mouth, and looks a little like a gas mask, except they do
not cover the eyes. They have them with one or two canisters that hold various types of filters that
protect you from various respiratory hazards. Some occupations require their use because they are
super effective.
They are called Wilson masks because they are a brand name for a whole line of personal protec-
tion safety gear. They are available with dust filters, activated charcoal filters (for volatile organic
solvents), and many other types of hazard filter things.
I would recommend the two canister model, as that will make breathing much easier for long periods
without experiencing shortness of breath. I have used them and they work really well. They are not
cheap, usually $40 or so, but worth every penny. Even members on here with pollen allergies or
other respiratory issues could benefit from owning one of them.
I think they would be helpful for various watermark fluids that require ventilation, as an extra meas-
ure of safety. Health is too precious to risk, and some types of damage is not obvious until it is irre-
versible.
Here is a place to look at what they are and their costs. This site has one on sale from $39.99 priced
at $24.99. Click Here to See One.
Just Chillin'....
TuskenRaider
Login to Like
this post
Approvals
re: Mold! and water chemistry
"Rubbing Alcohol will kill the mold and as I understand it is not damaging to the stamps..."
How about a soak in Ronson's Lighter Fluid? I believe the hobby agrees it doesn't damage stamps since that's the 'go to' chemical for watermark detection?? It should kill mold spores.
Login to Like
this post
re: Mold! and water chemistry
"... the hobby agrees it doesn't damage stamps since that's the 'go to' chemical for watermark detection ..."
One can only hope that the people who are remounting thousands & thousands of stamps onto acid-free archival-grade paper are not the same people dousing their little treasures in volatile organic fluids which, necessarily, contain a variety of compounds, not all of them volatile.
But, then, why not?
/s/ ikeyPikey
Login to Like
this post
It is during our darkest moments that we must focus to see the light. - Aristotle Onassis
24 Dec 2015
09:34:05am
re: Mold! and water chemistry
This has sparked an interesting conversation. I worked for almost a decade with water systems, remediating fungi and bacteria. We left the mold issues to the professionals. I don’t have any idea how to remove mold from stamps, hence this thread.
Bleach is actually caustic, not acidic. For those who aren’t familiar with it, the pH scale goes from just above zero to 14. A pH of 7.0 is neutral. Anything above that is caustic, anything below is acidic. The pH scale is logarithmic, so every one-unit change in pH actually represents a ten-fold change in acidity. In other words, pH 6.0 is ten times more acidic than pH 7.0; pH 5 is one hundred times mores acidic than pH 7.0.
It appears that lighter fluid has a pH of around 5. However, the misconception that our water is pH neutral (7.0) is common. The amount of various chemicals, toxins and carcinogens allowed in treated drinking water is incredible. See the EPA drinking water guidelines. This also states that drinking water can have a pH of between 5-9.
My home has well water which is specific to my location. However, my water is about a pH of 6. Deionized water is about 6 and RO (Reverse Osmosis) water is lower (more acidic). Therefore, anyone who soaks stamps is introducing some sort of acid from their water or chlorine from water treatment systems.
The question then becomes (for me) how acidic or caustic is too acidic or caustic for stamps? Since I have well water, is adding something to the soaking water so bad since treated water has so many additives? Has anyone ever soaked stamps with some sort of soap? It would have to be rinsed after, but it is another thought I’ve had.
I’m very curious to see what everyone thinks about this.
Login to Like
this post
re: Mold! and water chemistry
In response to Ikey-pikey's remark about "in a gadda da vida", I'm sure we have some members that have never had the joy of listening to that wonderful music and then some that have been missing it for years, so just follow this link and enjoy all 17 minutes of it I am enjoying it now.
Mike
(Modified by Moderator on 2015-12-24 11:09:37)
2 Members
like this post.
Login to Like.
re: Mold! and water chemistry
A few collectors with vids on youtube recommend putting a few drops of liquid soap in the water. They claim that it helps in washing away residual gum. If it were anti-fungal it might help with the mold, too.
But, there may be a lesson coming from someone on the differences between fungi and mold and why anti-fungal soap wouldn't work on mold.
I know! Lysol spray, it kills mold and mildew on contact, the commercial says so!
Merry Christmas, everyone!!
WB
Login to Like
this post
They who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety. -Benjamin Franklin
24 Dec 2015
11:19:35am
re: Mold! and water chemistry
Alright, let's get this back on topic!
Anyone who believes In a Gadda da Vida is a moldy oldie, knows nothing about metal rock and the definition of mold. It is as great today as it was back when we would lie around (me usually drunk, my buddies usually stoned) blissfully tripping on 17 minutes of Iron Butterfly's ground breaking classic. Loosely translated, the title means "in the garden of life (or Eden)."
1 Member
likes this post.
Login to Like.
A Service Dog gives a person with a disability independence. Never approach, distract or pet a working dog, especially when (s)he is in harness. Never be afraid to ask questions to the handler (parent).
24 Dec 2015
12:00:38pm
re: Mold! and water chemistry
Bobby - what a fantastic role for future lawyers you were back then! LOL
Login to Like
this post
re: Mold! and water chemistry
"... Bleach is actually caustic, not acidic ..."
Yowza! I stand corrected. The chlorine always brings to mind hydrochloric acid and, even though I knew that bleach was made from some other chlorine compound, I never thought for a moment that bleach was not acidic. Well-spotted!
Login to Like
this post
It is during our darkest moments that we must focus to see the light. - Aristotle Onassis
25 Dec 2015
11:00:00am
re: Mold! and water chemistry
ikeyPikey - no worries! I had to look it up to make sure my memory served me correctly. Regardless, caustic or acidic substances are probably not good for stamps.
WB - Ahhh, the differences between fungus and mold, eh? Mold is a type of fungus and grows by creating multicellular filaments (hyphae). Fungus can be anything from a growth of green stuff on organic matter (plants and animals) to those lovely things we eat called mushrooms. Mold is famous because penicillin is derived from a certain type. A big difference between the two is that mold causes the degradation of organic substances and fungus usually does not.
Therefore, technically, I would assume that anti-fungal soap would also work on mold since they are in the same family. In industrial use, bleach is most commonly used (in my experience) to annihilate fungus, mold, and bacteria. It’s the “kill everything in one shot†go to cleaner.
I suppose I will try a couple drops of liquid soap in my soaking water for these stamps, then a rinse in plain water. I may rethink this for higher valued stamps.
I thought I heard that Bobby offered to take all of the albums, soak all of the stamps and return them to me clean and ready to go in albums! Ssssshhhhh! Don't tell Bobby!
Login to Like
this post
Approvals
re: Mold! and water chemistry
Hi Lisa,
I have used hot water and a few drops of dish washing detergent for my stamp soaking for a lot of years..
A few things to remember though :: Test on a few low value stamps from the same Country and date; remember that not all detergents are created equal (some are acid and some are alkaline) Use one that is as close to neutral as possible (don't know how you will test that unless you have litmus paper).
The detergent is basically used as a wetting agent and some (soil) wetting agents used in the gardening world may be better - remember that LESS is Best and start with only a very small drop or two.
Cheers
Steve.
Login to Like
this post
It is during our darkest moments that we must focus to see the light. - Aristotle Onassis
26 Dec 2015
11:29:44pm
re: Mold! and water chemistry
Thank you, Steve. I have two aquariums so I do have pH testing strips. When I'm ready to tackle the giant, moldy ness, I'll let you all know the results.
Login to Like
this post
re: Mold! and water chemistry
For some years now I have been using Chloromine-T. There is a lot of information on the internet about it's use. Here is an extract:
"Chloramine-T is available in tablet or powder form and has to be dissolved before use. It is sprayed on a surface and allowed to stand for at least 15 minutes before being wiped off or allowed to dry. It used in areas such as hospitals, laboratories, nursing homes, funeral homes, medical, dental and veterinary facilities, where control of pathogens is required, for disinfecting surfaces and soaking medical and dental equipment. The substance is also used for parasite control and for drinking water disinfection.
Chloramine-T is as an algicide, bactericide, virucide, fungicide (including spores), germicide. It is also effective against mycobacteria such as tuberculosis, foot-and-mouth disease and avian influenza."
Popular with those who have ponds or tropical fish tanks, Kusuri is one brand of this chemical:
"Kusuri Chloramine T is a very popular and effective treatment to generally lower bacterial levels in the pond. Kusuri Chloramine T can be effective on white spot, skin flukes and some bacterial gill diseases. Kusuri Chloramine T can be used in the entire pond or as a dip or bath treatment. Use above 55 degrees Fahrenheit.
Kusuri Chloramine T is a powdered product an effective broad spectrum chemical for lowering bacteria in ponds.
At higher dose rates Kusuri Chloramine T can be used for skin / gill flukes, white spot, costia etc."
The use of Chloromine-T is not new to philately and collectors of documents. It was marketed
as Ducal's Fox It. Originally retailed by philatelic suppliers Vera Trinder in London (now moved), it is no longer made unfortunately. However, Chloromine-T is readily available online and is more cost effective than when Fox It was available.
I have had considerable success using this on documents and stamps. Aside from it's ability to remove foxing and toning, it has removed staining from pictures kept near open fires and tobacco smoke.
Just don't mention this, or bleach, or ammonia to any document preservation specialist; they'll set the hound of Hades upon you.
Login to Like
this post
re: Mold! and water chemistry
"... exposure to dry heat of 150 degrees F for just 30 minutes ..."
I would caution that any heat will, first & foremost, bring out any residual moisture in the paper, and that enough out-gassed water vapor will activate WAG (Water Activated Gum) to ill effect.
There will be much less risk of this if you are baking single sheets, and much more risk if you are backing whole albums.
And ...
When evaluating amateur science reports ("Brief online research suggests ..."), critical thinking becomes, well, critical.
Example: someone does something to a paper something bearing some kind of mold. Smell goes away. Without analytic tools that The Average Joe is unlikely to possess, it will not be immediately obvious if the mold is 'dead' or 'dormant' (returned to spores).
From a smell point of view, these can be pretty much the same. But if the afore-mentioned paper something is exposed again to warmth & humidity, the spores will thrive.
Put another way, the only reliable DIY test of dead-vs-dormant is to expose the album to warmth & humidity, a test best avoided because you might get lucky (as it were).
In conclusion: when baking paper to kill mold, be aware that you may not be achieving what you think you are achieving, but that it may not make a difference if you do what should have been done all along.
Cheers,
/s/ ikeyPikey
Login to Like
this post