Discussion - Member to Member Sales - Research Center
Discussion - Member to Member Sales - Research Center
Art
Login to Like
this post
Aside from older stamps with plate numbers, not much is added to the value for singles. Plate number singles even on more modern stamps (take the Liberty Series for example), you can sometimes identify the printing type and thus the catalog number for the stamp, like the 8 cent Statue of Liberty stamp.
I do not collect stamps with the plain selvedge. If I need the stamp, or am going to sell it, I remove the selvedge. I have found that stamps with such selvedge are hard to sell. When I removed the selvedge, the stamps sold.
Login to Like
this post
I think a lot of people tear off selvage to fit the stamp in the little box that their album provides.That's one of the reasons I don't use a standard album.
I don't tear off the selvage. I think it adds interest to the stamp and makes it a bit different from the stamps in the center of the sheet. Let's say we break up a typical sheet of 50 commemoratives. We yield:
1 plate block of four
1 zip block of four
1 mail early block of six
That leaves us with
2 corner singles (opposite corners than the plate strip)
3 wide selvage singles from plate strip side
2 each, top and bottom selvage
8 narrow selvage on one side (side opposite the plate strip)
24 singles in the center, with no selvage possibilities
sooo does this translate into value? Nope! Most of the stamps of the past 60 years aren't worth face value today. So does it really matter? Nope!
As for me, I'll choose the stamps with selvage over ones that don't for my album. I'll keep a plate single, zip single, mail early single or any other marked selvage single. I don't go seeking these, but I think they add interest to the collection.
In fact I've always taken the corners opposite the plate strip and made a small four corners sheetlet in my albums. See the attached cover that I serviced back in 1977.
1 Member
likes this post.
Login to Like.
A few more examples of things in my albums, typical pages that I already had scanned:
Minnesota issue of 1949 - Note that the single has bottom selvage. The FDC is not an Artcraft cachet, AND has a corner pair on it.
National Defense 1 cent value - see the single.. it's not only got selvage, but was the top sheet of 100 as marked. How many like that are out there?
NRA issue of 1933. Why break a decent size block that's survived this way all these years? It fit in the pocket, so I've kept it intact. Also, the cover below isn't a first day cover, but interesting usage on a registered letter.
I just think it all makes my collection just a bit different.
Login to Like
this post
I collect used USA... the whole thing. I save marginal markings 1976-2000. A wonderful challenge!
David in Ottawa, Canada
Login to Like
this post
I never remove selvage from stamps from the 1920's on back. Many people as I do believe it adds to the value of the stamp, normally 10% for plain and more with inscriptions. I have a table somewhere for things that add or subtract from the value of a stamp and selvage is one of them.
Login to Like
this post
Selvage with the printer's name is also considered collectable by some people
Login to Like
this post
Thanks to all! Not an earthshaking issue I know but it is always good to hear what others have to say. Might just have to rethink this! I was usually in the habit of removing any selvage but now it might just take me down the 453rd rabbit hole I've explored since I started collecting!
Login to Like
this post
The worst thing I've seen done with selvage is to fold it against the back of the mint stamp. There it will stay forever unless the stamp is soaked. I don't know if individuals actually folded and intentionally attached the selvage to the back of the stamp or if it adhered firmly over time in an album. Either way, it's not a nice thing to do to a mint stamp!
Login to Like
this post
i'm a selvage saver, knowing that the selvage helps plate a stamp, thereby making it rare than the other 74 stamps on a pane of 100. In fact, with the selvage gone, it is utterly indistinguishable from any of the other 99 with selvage removed. it's also why I don't mind straight edges.
Login to Like
this post
There have been several discussion on this board relating to selvedge. I am cutting and pasting a response that I posted on 7/12/2011 with a few modifications. The link I provided is no longer valid so I am providing some new links...
Blank selvedge can help tell you about the perforation method used for certain issues.
Line Perforations (L) are created by perforating the sheets in one direction then turning the sheet 90 degrees and perforating in the other direction. This causes the perforations to overlap where stamps & selvedge connect. The perforations go to the end of the selvedge. Stamps with comb perforations (Bulls-eye) have at least three sides perforated at one time. There is no overlap where the stamps or selvedge connect. The perforations only partially perforate the selvedge.
One stamp that comes to mind is Scott 1596 which is normally comb perforated and is worth only a few cents.
If you go to this link you will readily see why it would be easier to tell the difference between the stamps if you have the selvedge still attached especially for singles.
http://www.apnss.org/Americana.htm
Scroll down the the 13 Cent Eagle & Shield Stamp. Notice the perforations on 1596d go to the end of the sheet. 1596 only has 1 perforation in the selvedge and the selvedge must be torn to separate fully.
Here is a link to an auction house of a Block of 4 of 1596d showing the overlapping perfs.
http://db.kelleherauctions.com/php/lot_auc.php?site=1&sale=681&lot=2025&lang=1
The Bulls-eye block of 4 has a 2016 SCV of $1. The Line Perf block of 4 has an SCV of $110.
If there is no selevedge on this stamp you can always measure the perfs. 11.2 for 1596 and 11 for 1596d.
Bob
Login to Like
this post
For non-US stamps, plain selvage also sometimes makes it pretty easy to identify the watermark.
Thanks,
Josh
Login to Like
this post
I generally discard selvage unless it serves an identification purpose. Plate number singles are great when differentiating Flat Plate from Rotary Press (no perf check needed):
As previously discussed, the selvage can easily identify different perforation types which will ID the stamp. It doesn't have to have a plate number to be helpful:
Of course plate numbers can be used in several ways. The 6¢ and 7¢ stamps below can only be unwatermarked based on the plate number and the 10¢ plate tab is useful for SEEING the watermark. (The tab could just as easily been blank. A little more real estate often comes in handy trying to detect single line watermarks on 3rd Bureau stamps):
Plate numbers are also great for identifying Type differences all the way back to the Second Bureau. Often times cheaper than a cert.
Here selvage identifies the 1¢ as an imperf and the plate number identifies the type of the 2¢ stamp:
Selvage can also be useful in differentiating a souvenir sheet single from a normal single:
Lars
Login to Like
this post
Lovely pages, Lars.
David in Ottawa, Canada.
Login to Like
this post
Thank you, David!
Login to Like
this post
Was going through a box lot this morning and thought I'd put this out to the collective brain trust for opinion. What do you do when you acquire a stamp with selvage attached? I know that some people collect plate number singles. I know that there are also 'Mr. Zip" and "Mail Early In The Day" fans. If it is just plain selvage, does it add any value to the stamp. How much value do the other "printed selvage" (plate number, Mr. Zip, etc) add to the value of the stamp? Just curious.
Art
Login to Like
this post
re: Selvage
Aside from older stamps with plate numbers, not much is added to the value for singles. Plate number singles even on more modern stamps (take the Liberty Series for example), you can sometimes identify the printing type and thus the catalog number for the stamp, like the 8 cent Statue of Liberty stamp.
I do not collect stamps with the plain selvedge. If I need the stamp, or am going to sell it, I remove the selvedge. I have found that stamps with such selvedge are hard to sell. When I removed the selvedge, the stamps sold.
Login to Like
this post
Approvals
re: Selvage
I think a lot of people tear off selvage to fit the stamp in the little box that their album provides.That's one of the reasons I don't use a standard album.
I don't tear off the selvage. I think it adds interest to the stamp and makes it a bit different from the stamps in the center of the sheet. Let's say we break up a typical sheet of 50 commemoratives. We yield:
1 plate block of four
1 zip block of four
1 mail early block of six
That leaves us with
2 corner singles (opposite corners than the plate strip)
3 wide selvage singles from plate strip side
2 each, top and bottom selvage
8 narrow selvage on one side (side opposite the plate strip)
24 singles in the center, with no selvage possibilities
sooo does this translate into value? Nope! Most of the stamps of the past 60 years aren't worth face value today. So does it really matter? Nope!
As for me, I'll choose the stamps with selvage over ones that don't for my album. I'll keep a plate single, zip single, mail early single or any other marked selvage single. I don't go seeking these, but I think they add interest to the collection.
In fact I've always taken the corners opposite the plate strip and made a small four corners sheetlet in my albums. See the attached cover that I serviced back in 1977.
1 Member
likes this post.
Login to Like.
Approvals
re: Selvage
A few more examples of things in my albums, typical pages that I already had scanned:
Minnesota issue of 1949 - Note that the single has bottom selvage. The FDC is not an Artcraft cachet, AND has a corner pair on it.
National Defense 1 cent value - see the single.. it's not only got selvage, but was the top sheet of 100 as marked. How many like that are out there?
NRA issue of 1933. Why break a decent size block that's survived this way all these years? It fit in the pocket, so I've kept it intact. Also, the cover below isn't a first day cover, but interesting usage on a registered letter.
I just think it all makes my collection just a bit different.
Login to Like
this post
re: Selvage
I collect used USA... the whole thing. I save marginal markings 1976-2000. A wonderful challenge!
David in Ottawa, Canada
Login to Like
this post
re: Selvage
I never remove selvage from stamps from the 1920's on back. Many people as I do believe it adds to the value of the stamp, normally 10% for plain and more with inscriptions. I have a table somewhere for things that add or subtract from the value of a stamp and selvage is one of them.
Login to Like
this post
re: Selvage
Selvage with the printer's name is also considered collectable by some people
Login to Like
this post
re: Selvage
Thanks to all! Not an earthshaking issue I know but it is always good to hear what others have to say. Might just have to rethink this! I was usually in the habit of removing any selvage but now it might just take me down the 453rd rabbit hole I've explored since I started collecting!
Login to Like
this post
re: Selvage
The worst thing I've seen done with selvage is to fold it against the back of the mint stamp. There it will stay forever unless the stamp is soaked. I don't know if individuals actually folded and intentionally attached the selvage to the back of the stamp or if it adhered firmly over time in an album. Either way, it's not a nice thing to do to a mint stamp!
Login to Like
this post
Auctions
re: Selvage
i'm a selvage saver, knowing that the selvage helps plate a stamp, thereby making it rare than the other 74 stamps on a pane of 100. In fact, with the selvage gone, it is utterly indistinguishable from any of the other 99 with selvage removed. it's also why I don't mind straight edges.
Login to Like
this post
President - West Essex Philatelic Society www.wepsonline.org
03 Jan 2017
05:45:00pm
re: Selvage
There have been several discussion on this board relating to selvedge. I am cutting and pasting a response that I posted on 7/12/2011 with a few modifications. The link I provided is no longer valid so I am providing some new links...
Blank selvedge can help tell you about the perforation method used for certain issues.
Line Perforations (L) are created by perforating the sheets in one direction then turning the sheet 90 degrees and perforating in the other direction. This causes the perforations to overlap where stamps & selvedge connect. The perforations go to the end of the selvedge. Stamps with comb perforations (Bulls-eye) have at least three sides perforated at one time. There is no overlap where the stamps or selvedge connect. The perforations only partially perforate the selvedge.
One stamp that comes to mind is Scott 1596 which is normally comb perforated and is worth only a few cents.
If you go to this link you will readily see why it would be easier to tell the difference between the stamps if you have the selvedge still attached especially for singles.
http://www.apnss.org/Americana.htm
Scroll down the the 13 Cent Eagle & Shield Stamp. Notice the perforations on 1596d go to the end of the sheet. 1596 only has 1 perforation in the selvedge and the selvedge must be torn to separate fully.
Here is a link to an auction house of a Block of 4 of 1596d showing the overlapping perfs.
http://db.kelleherauctions.com/php/lot_auc.php?site=1&sale=681&lot=2025&lang=1
The Bulls-eye block of 4 has a 2016 SCV of $1. The Line Perf block of 4 has an SCV of $110.
If there is no selevedge on this stamp you can always measure the perfs. 11.2 for 1596 and 11 for 1596d.
Bob
Login to Like
this post
re: Selvage
For non-US stamps, plain selvage also sometimes makes it pretty easy to identify the watermark.
Thanks,
Josh
Login to Like
this post
re: Selvage
I generally discard selvage unless it serves an identification purpose. Plate number singles are great when differentiating Flat Plate from Rotary Press (no perf check needed):
As previously discussed, the selvage can easily identify different perforation types which will ID the stamp. It doesn't have to have a plate number to be helpful:
Of course plate numbers can be used in several ways. The 6¢ and 7¢ stamps below can only be unwatermarked based on the plate number and the 10¢ plate tab is useful for SEEING the watermark. (The tab could just as easily been blank. A little more real estate often comes in handy trying to detect single line watermarks on 3rd Bureau stamps):
Plate numbers are also great for identifying Type differences all the way back to the Second Bureau. Often times cheaper than a cert.
Here selvage identifies the 1¢ as an imperf and the plate number identifies the type of the 2¢ stamp:
Selvage can also be useful in differentiating a souvenir sheet single from a normal single:
Lars
Login to Like
this post
re: Selvage
Lovely pages, Lars.
David in Ottawa, Canada.
Login to Like
this post
re: Selvage
Thank you, David!
Login to Like
this post