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General Philatelic/Supplies, Literature & Software : tips for mounts

 

Author
Postings
MustangA
Members Picture


13 Apr 2019
03:11:10pm
I am far enough along in my 1970 project (all the stamps from 1970) that I need to seriously consider how I want to present it.

I am of two minds. I have enjoyed using the black pages like Vario and others. The stamps show up very crisply on them.

On the other hand, I like how my stamps look in my hingeless Canadian album with mounts.

Of course that decision is entirely up to me, and I am considering either just sticking with the black pages or creating my own pages.

To that end, having only used the mounts that came with the Canadian Album, I was wondering which mounts people recommend using. Specifically based on:
ease of use
durability
availability
price

I have done a little research (which might be out of date) and it seems that the greatest difficulty has to do with the mounting procedure--using water or glue or self adhesive. Any thoughts would be most welcome.

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auldstampguy
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Tim
Collector/Webmaster

13 Apr 2019
03:54:18pm

Auctions - Approvals
re: tips for mounts

I keep a supply of Scott or Prinz black mounts on hand, of varying sizes. I like the look of the black mounts around the edge of the stamp. I use the Steiner pages for my albums and supplement pages where needed using AlbumEasy, which creates a page that fits in very well with the Steiner pages.

Regards ... Tim.

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MustangA
Members Picture


13 Apr 2019
04:06:48pm
re: tips for mounts

Are these self adhesive or do I need a little water ....or glue? Whenever I search for mounts to buy they keep offering a sponge....

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auldstampguy
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Tim
Collector/Webmaster

13 Apr 2019
06:13:10pm

Auctions - Approvals
re: tips for mounts

I just lick the top half of the back of the mounts. Moistening the top half leaves flexibility in the mount if you need to change the stamp out, which happens.

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vinman
Members Picture


13 Apr 2019
06:32:28pm
re: tips for mounts

I use a glue pen to attach mounts. I run a small line on the top half of the mount and stay away from the edges. It doesn't take much glue. The glue pen doesn't leave that ripple on the back side of the album page that water or saliva sometimes will.
The advertisement for this pen says that you can remove what you glued after the glue dries but I found that I can't. You will have a few seconds to re-position the mount before the glue dries. I found this on Amazon.

EK Tools 55-00012 Glue Pen Zig Chisel Tip 2 Way Multicolor

Image Not Found


I use Scott or Showgard mounts. I buy them by the strip and use a guillotine cutter to cut to size. Here is a page from my Newfoundland collection.

Image Not Found

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AntoniusRa
Members Picture


The truth is within and only you can reveal it

13 Apr 2019
11:23:02pm
re: tips for mounts

I have posted this technique before but I really think it is the handiest and most economical way to deal with mounts, so I feel I should post again for those who have not seen it.
One of the biggest problems with mounts is having the correct size to mount the stamps you have. This technique except for some SS sheets will keep that from being a problem any more. The mount you will end up with is a top loader and not a split back. I much prefer top loaders because it makes it very easy to remove stamps for inspection. Removing stamps from split backs can often times cause damage to the stamps especially if you attach the bottom part of the mount and not just the top. Some people fear stamps falling out of top loaders but it is really not that much of a worry unless you use your album for a frisbee or are prone to dropping them.
You will need a small stamp shear and a regular size paper cutter and a quality glue stick. I use Elmers glue sticks. The glue on many mounts is either to weak or to strong which results in mounts falling out or stuck to aggressively that they cannot be removed without tearing the page. Glue sticks are the happy medium which adhere well but can be removed without tearing the page.
I buy Scott, Showgards or Prinz split back mounts (whatever you can find at the best price) I get 3 or 4 sizes between 59 and 110mm in height. Compare pricing according to length of the mounts and how many per package as this varies quite a bit. Using the large shear I cut the mount length wise in half along the split. Remember to use a thin piece of cardboard just in back of the cutting line on top of the mount. This will make sure the mount is well secured and will not create a poor cut. This now gives you 2 top loading mounts. These can now be cut along the top and side/s to get the mount size required. Since you are using one mount strip to get two strips the price is greatly reduced. This technique will cut your expense of mounting by nearly 1/2 and you will never be lacking the right size mount you need. Use the glue stick to mount not the glue on the mount for reasons stated above and the glue on the mount will tend to wrinkle the mount due to shrinkage from wetting it. There of course is a lot more cutting to do but I feel the advantages far out weigh this.
Note: after you cut the first mount check how the stamp fits and how the mounts fit in the boarder of the stamp on the page.

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angore
Members Picture


Collector, Moderator

14 Apr 2019
05:57:03am
re: tips for mounts

I also cut split backs for mounts but I just buy multiple sizes so have defined sizes. The reason I use multiple sizes is that less waste and usually is a less expensive mount. I do not like hinging for many reasons.

up to 25 use 57mm strip
up to 27 use 59mm
up to 28 use 63mm
up to 29 use 66mm
up to 33 use 72mm
up to 35 use 75mm

The math is take precut size subtract 5mm then divide by 2. This will tell you size of stamp that can be used.

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51Studebaker
Members Picture


Dialysis, damned if you do...dead if you don't

14 Apr 2019
07:45:53am
re: tips for mounts

MustangA,
Be aware that split back mounts can damage mint stamps.

The 'mounting' topic is difficult, but one that we really need a better understanding about. Many folks experiment with various mounting techniques such as modern adhesives, sheet protectors, paper which we purchase believing it is ‘acid free’, modern hinges, etc. And when we seem to have good results and success, we post about it.

But as is the case with split back mounts, supposedly ‘acid free’ paper, modern adhesives, sheet protectors, modern hinges; there is a potential to damage our stamps. Back in the day, this was the same situation as the now infamous Crystal Mounts. You can still find old albums with Crystal Mounts where the stamps are in very good condition. Decades after it was determined that Crystal Mounts could ruin mint stamps within a year or two, we are still finding some albums where they have not done any damage. But the truth is, Crystal Mounts had the potential to damage stamps. Whether or not a mounting solution is going to damage our stamps has everything to do with the environment. If you are very diligent about the environmental storage conditions, you can get away with all kinds of things.

Using split back mounts as the example, many of us (myself included) have used them for decades without damage. But I guarantee you that if you use split back mount and then store your albums laying flat for a year or two, you will damage your mint stamps. The weight of the paper and gravity will impress a permanent line from the mount split into the gum. Or if you store an overfilled album in a tight slip case or on the shelf where inward pressure is being applied and the pages are being compressed, the split back mounts will cause damage to mint stamps.

So caution needs to be used when you ask for opinions on mounting solutions. Kind hearted and well intentioned folks will offer up their solutions backed with stories about how well it has worked for them for the last 50 years. But a single person having success has no real scientific value; it takes far more testing then a single collector can ever do to fully understand if a mounting solution has the potential to damage stamps. As a group, our different type of storage environments vary in thousands of ways.

Lastly, be aware that stamps are sponges. While we may take care with things that come in direct contact with our stamps, the atmosphere we maintain around out stamp is just as important. The key factor in proper storage is limiting fluxuations. When things like RH (relative humidity) fluctuate, the paper in our stamps acts like sponge by exchanging moisture. Heat and moisture changes accelerate the chemical reactions that cause paper to deteriorate, and high moisture levels can result in mold growth. A cool, dry and stable storage environment is paramount; temperatures should be held at a constant 70°F with a relative humidity held between 30% and 50%. Additionally, note that any atmospheric pollution or other contaminates can literally be pulled into the stamp. So is that modern adhesive (even if it does not come in contact with the stamp) outgassing anything that might damage the stamp?

And while you can find endless opinions and suggestions in various mounting solutions, you will find very little information about controlling the environment. If you are going to experiment with any of the solutions that you will see posted, it is critical that you monitor the environment AND your stamps. Do not assume that just because I have had success that you will have the same success. ‘Tried and true’ mounting solutions are your safest bet if you are not maintaining highly controlled environmental conditions. If you do decide to experiment with some of the personal solutions offered, be aware that you will need to constantly monitor your stamps over time since your storage conditions are not the same as the original posters.
Don

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"Current Score... Don 1 - Cancer 0"

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Author/Postings
Members Picture
MustangA

13 Apr 2019
03:11:10pm

I am far enough along in my 1970 project (all the stamps from 1970) that I need to seriously consider how I want to present it.

I am of two minds. I have enjoyed using the black pages like Vario and others. The stamps show up very crisply on them.

On the other hand, I like how my stamps look in my hingeless Canadian album with mounts.

Of course that decision is entirely up to me, and I am considering either just sticking with the black pages or creating my own pages.

To that end, having only used the mounts that came with the Canadian Album, I was wondering which mounts people recommend using. Specifically based on:
ease of use
durability
availability
price

I have done a little research (which might be out of date) and it seems that the greatest difficulty has to do with the mounting procedure--using water or glue or self adhesive. Any thoughts would be most welcome.

Like 
1 Member
likes this post.
Login to Like.

aboyandhisstamps.wor ...
Members Picture
auldstampguy

Tim
Collector/Webmaster
13 Apr 2019
03:54:18pm

Auctions - Approvals

re: tips for mounts

I keep a supply of Scott or Prinz black mounts on hand, of varying sizes. I like the look of the black mounts around the edge of the stamp. I use the Steiner pages for my albums and supplement pages where needed using AlbumEasy, which creates a page that fits in very well with the Steiner pages.

Regards ... Tim.

Like 
3 Members
like this post.
Login to Like.

mncancels.org
Members Picture
MustangA

13 Apr 2019
04:06:48pm

re: tips for mounts

Are these self adhesive or do I need a little water ....or glue? Whenever I search for mounts to buy they keep offering a sponge....

Like
Login to Like
this post

aboyandhisstamps.wor ...
Members Picture
auldstampguy

Tim
Collector/Webmaster
13 Apr 2019
06:13:10pm

Auctions - Approvals

re: tips for mounts

I just lick the top half of the back of the mounts. Moistening the top half leaves flexibility in the mount if you need to change the stamp out, which happens.

Like 
1 Member
likes this post.
Login to Like.

mncancels.org
Members Picture
vinman

13 Apr 2019
06:32:28pm

re: tips for mounts

I use a glue pen to attach mounts. I run a small line on the top half of the mount and stay away from the edges. It doesn't take much glue. The glue pen doesn't leave that ripple on the back side of the album page that water or saliva sometimes will.
The advertisement for this pen says that you can remove what you glued after the glue dries but I found that I can't. You will have a few seconds to re-position the mount before the glue dries. I found this on Amazon.

EK Tools 55-00012 Glue Pen Zig Chisel Tip 2 Way Multicolor

Image Not Found


I use Scott or Showgard mounts. I buy them by the strip and use a guillotine cutter to cut to size. Here is a page from my Newfoundland collection.

Image Not Found

Like 
6 Members
like this post.
Login to Like.

"The best in Big Band and Swing Music WRDV.org"

wrdv.org/
Members Picture
AntoniusRa

The truth is within and only you can reveal it
13 Apr 2019
11:23:02pm

re: tips for mounts

I have posted this technique before but I really think it is the handiest and most economical way to deal with mounts, so I feel I should post again for those who have not seen it.
One of the biggest problems with mounts is having the correct size to mount the stamps you have. This technique except for some SS sheets will keep that from being a problem any more. The mount you will end up with is a top loader and not a split back. I much prefer top loaders because it makes it very easy to remove stamps for inspection. Removing stamps from split backs can often times cause damage to the stamps especially if you attach the bottom part of the mount and not just the top. Some people fear stamps falling out of top loaders but it is really not that much of a worry unless you use your album for a frisbee or are prone to dropping them.
You will need a small stamp shear and a regular size paper cutter and a quality glue stick. I use Elmers glue sticks. The glue on many mounts is either to weak or to strong which results in mounts falling out or stuck to aggressively that they cannot be removed without tearing the page. Glue sticks are the happy medium which adhere well but can be removed without tearing the page.
I buy Scott, Showgards or Prinz split back mounts (whatever you can find at the best price) I get 3 or 4 sizes between 59 and 110mm in height. Compare pricing according to length of the mounts and how many per package as this varies quite a bit. Using the large shear I cut the mount length wise in half along the split. Remember to use a thin piece of cardboard just in back of the cutting line on top of the mount. This will make sure the mount is well secured and will not create a poor cut. This now gives you 2 top loading mounts. These can now be cut along the top and side/s to get the mount size required. Since you are using one mount strip to get two strips the price is greatly reduced. This technique will cut your expense of mounting by nearly 1/2 and you will never be lacking the right size mount you need. Use the glue stick to mount not the glue on the mount for reasons stated above and the glue on the mount will tend to wrinkle the mount due to shrinkage from wetting it. There of course is a lot more cutting to do but I feel the advantages far out weigh this.
Note: after you cut the first mount check how the stamp fits and how the mounts fit in the boarder of the stamp on the page.

Like 
2 Members
like this post.
Login to Like.

mitch.seymourfamily. ...
Members Picture
angore

Collector, Moderator
14 Apr 2019
05:57:03am

re: tips for mounts

I also cut split backs for mounts but I just buy multiple sizes so have defined sizes. The reason I use multiple sizes is that less waste and usually is a less expensive mount. I do not like hinging for many reasons.

up to 25 use 57mm strip
up to 27 use 59mm
up to 28 use 63mm
up to 29 use 66mm
up to 33 use 72mm
up to 35 use 75mm

The math is take precut size subtract 5mm then divide by 2. This will tell you size of stamp that can be used.

Like 
1 Member
likes this post.
Login to Like.

"Stamp Collecting is a many splendored thing"
Members Picture
51Studebaker

Dialysis, damned if you do...dead if you don't
14 Apr 2019
07:45:53am

re: tips for mounts

MustangA,
Be aware that split back mounts can damage mint stamps.

The 'mounting' topic is difficult, but one that we really need a better understanding about. Many folks experiment with various mounting techniques such as modern adhesives, sheet protectors, paper which we purchase believing it is ‘acid free’, modern hinges, etc. And when we seem to have good results and success, we post about it.

But as is the case with split back mounts, supposedly ‘acid free’ paper, modern adhesives, sheet protectors, modern hinges; there is a potential to damage our stamps. Back in the day, this was the same situation as the now infamous Crystal Mounts. You can still find old albums with Crystal Mounts where the stamps are in very good condition. Decades after it was determined that Crystal Mounts could ruin mint stamps within a year or two, we are still finding some albums where they have not done any damage. But the truth is, Crystal Mounts had the potential to damage stamps. Whether or not a mounting solution is going to damage our stamps has everything to do with the environment. If you are very diligent about the environmental storage conditions, you can get away with all kinds of things.

Using split back mounts as the example, many of us (myself included) have used them for decades without damage. But I guarantee you that if you use split back mount and then store your albums laying flat for a year or two, you will damage your mint stamps. The weight of the paper and gravity will impress a permanent line from the mount split into the gum. Or if you store an overfilled album in a tight slip case or on the shelf where inward pressure is being applied and the pages are being compressed, the split back mounts will cause damage to mint stamps.

So caution needs to be used when you ask for opinions on mounting solutions. Kind hearted and well intentioned folks will offer up their solutions backed with stories about how well it has worked for them for the last 50 years. But a single person having success has no real scientific value; it takes far more testing then a single collector can ever do to fully understand if a mounting solution has the potential to damage stamps. As a group, our different type of storage environments vary in thousands of ways.

Lastly, be aware that stamps are sponges. While we may take care with things that come in direct contact with our stamps, the atmosphere we maintain around out stamp is just as important. The key factor in proper storage is limiting fluxuations. When things like RH (relative humidity) fluctuate, the paper in our stamps acts like sponge by exchanging moisture. Heat and moisture changes accelerate the chemical reactions that cause paper to deteriorate, and high moisture levels can result in mold growth. A cool, dry and stable storage environment is paramount; temperatures should be held at a constant 70°F with a relative humidity held between 30% and 50%. Additionally, note that any atmospheric pollution or other contaminates can literally be pulled into the stamp. So is that modern adhesive (even if it does not come in contact with the stamp) outgassing anything that might damage the stamp?

And while you can find endless opinions and suggestions in various mounting solutions, you will find very little information about controlling the environment. If you are going to experiment with any of the solutions that you will see posted, it is critical that you monitor the environment AND your stamps. Do not assume that just because I have had success that you will have the same success. ‘Tried and true’ mounting solutions are your safest bet if you are not maintaining highly controlled environmental conditions. If you do decide to experiment with some of the personal solutions offered, be aware that you will need to constantly monitor your stamps over time since your storage conditions are not the same as the original posters.
Don

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"Current Score... Don 1 - Cancer 0"

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